Kostroma Reservoir map and diagram. From the history of my homeland
: Central, Zavolzhsky, Factory
Kostroma- a city in the Russian Federation on the Volga River, the administrative center of the Kostroma region, a huge river port. The permanent population is 269,711 people (2010). The area of the city is 144.5 km. In 2011, the territorial and administrative division of the city into 3 districts was restored: Central, Fabrichny and Zavolzhsky.
Kostroma was founded in the 12th century, and in the 13th century it became the center of an appanage principality. The historical center of the city has primarily preserved an exemplary ensemble of its kind from the classicism era of the late 18th-19th centuries. Of the monuments of the pre-Petrine era, the most interesting are the complexes of the Ipatiev and Epiphany-Anastasia monasteries. The city is included in the list of settlements with official status“historical”, and is usually included in the “Golden Ring of the Russian Federation”.
City Day in Kostroma is usually celebrated on the last Saturday of August along with the celebration of the Feast of the Theodore Icon of the Mother of God, August 29.
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Physiographic feature
Geographical position
Kostroma is located on the Kostroma Lowland, on both banks of the Volga, at the old mouth of the Kostroma River - 65 km from Yaroslavl, 105 km from Ivanovo and 301 km northeast of Moscow. Distance from MKAD by road ( M8"Kholmogory", subsequently that A113) - 306 km. The public area of the area within the city is 144.5 km.
Timezone
Kostroma and the Kostroma region, like neighboring regions, belong to the capital time zone (Moscow Time Zone, MSK/MSD). The offset from UTC is +4:00 (MSD).
Climate
The climate is moderate continental, with a strong moderating influence Atlantic Ocean. The average annual temperature is +4.2 C°, the average annual wind speed is 3.1 m/s, the average annual air humidity is 79%.
| Climate of Kostroma | |||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Index | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct | But I | Dec | G. |
| Absolute maximum, °C | 6,6 | 6,5 | 17,9 | 27,6 | 31,9 | 32,6 | 37,1 | 37,3 | 30,2 | 22,9 | 12,4 | 9,4 | 37,3 |
| Average maximum, °C | 6,2 | 5,5 | 0,8 | 9,9 | 17,8 | 21,5 | 24,0 | 21,2 | 15,0 | 7,5 | 0,7 | 4,7 | 8,4 |
| Average temperature, °C | 9,4 | 9 | 3 | 4,9 | 12,0 | 16,2 | 18,7 | 16,0 | 10,4 | 4,2 | 3,1 | 7,5 | 4,2 |
| Average minimum, °C | 12,5 | 12,2 | 6,4 | 0,9 | 7,0 | 11,5 | 13,9 | 11,8 | 6,8 | 1,6 | 5,4 | 10,3 | 0,6 |
| Absolute minimum, °C | 46,4 | 39,3 | 31,1 | 19 | 5,5 | 2,7 | 3,7 | 1,4 | 5,8 | 18,5 | 28,8 | 44,4 | 46,4 |
| Precipitation rate, miles. | 42 | 30 | 29 | 33 | 46 | 77 | 73 | 75 | 61 | 64 | 49 | 46 | 625 |
| Source: Weather and Climate | |||||||||||||
Hydrology
Ipatiev Monastery (view from the opposite bank of the old bed of the Kostroma River)
The main rivers of Kostroma are the Volga (Gorky Reservoir) and its left tributary Kostroma, the level of which is raised by the backwater of the Nizhny Novgorod hydroelectric station. Kostroma is located on both banks at 597-603 km from the source of the Volga (Upper Volga), here the river changes its direction and turns to the southeast. The right bank of the Volga is high and steep, the left bank is low. The width of the Volga within the city is about 600 meters.
Within the city limits, near the Ipatiev Monastery, there is the old bed of the Kostroma River, in this moment This is an additional shipping passage leading to the ship repair yard and the settling and repair facility of the port of Kostroma. The bed of the Kostroma River was blocked by a dam within the city in 1955-1956, which led to the creation of the Kostroma Reservoir (expansion of the Gorky Reservoir). The new artificially created mouth of the Kostroma River is located 12 km upstream near the village of Samet.
In the area of the city, a certain number of rivers and streams flow into the Volga and Kostroma (the bulk of them are enclosed in pipes along important lengths): the most important of them are Zaprudnya, Sula (an underground channel in the city center) and the Black River.
The average water flow of the Volga near Kostroma is 1110 m/sec, the average long-term value of the level of the Gorky Reservoir near Kostroma is 84.28 m3.
The Volga River is the main source of water supply for the city. According to the chemical composition, the water in the Volga River is characterized as soft, low-mineralized, with a low content of chlorides and sulfates. Chloride content 26-30 mg/l (MPC 350 mg/l), sulfates 6.0-7.2 mg/l (MPC 500 mg/l), hardness 2.6-2.8 mol/l (MPC 7, 0 mol/l), public mineralization 137.0-164 mg/l (MPC 1000 mg/l). In general, Volga water is characterized by high color (color varies from 28 to 70 degrees, average 46 degrees), high organic content (permanganate oxidation 9-18 mg O 2 /l, COD - up to 60 mg O 2 /l), low turbidity (3-7 mg/l, during the spring flood, well, almost at the end of winter it can briefly increase to 20 mg/l). The main mass of features of anthropogenic pollution (content of pesticides, heavy metals, petroleum products, etc.) are within the limits accepted for drinking water standards. However, in terms of the content of phytoplankton in the summer months and, periodically, in terms of the level of microbiological pollution, the water quality becomes heavier, which requires additional stages of purification. Along with the surface source, underground deposits located in the north of the city (Bashutino) are used. The explored capacity of the deposit is, according to various sources, 24-33 thousand meters per day. The water in the source meets drinking standards in all respects, except for iron content (1-2 mg/l.)
City symbols
Main articles: Coat of arms of Kostroma,Flag of KostromaThe city of Kostroma, in accordance with federal legislation and heraldic rules, has official symbols - a coat of arms, a flag, an anthem, reflecting historical, cultural, national and other local traditions and originalities (Article 4 of the Charter of the city of Kostroma).
The historical coat of arms of Kostroma was approved on October 24, 1767, restored on July 5, 1878, restored for the second time on October 7, 1992. The coat of arms of Kostroma is the first city coat of arms in the history of the Russian Federation.
Depicts the galley "Tver", on which Empress Catherine II arrived in Kostroma.
In an azure field, sailing to the left on azure waves with silver crests is a golden galley with silver sails and 10 golden oarsmen; on the mast is the Imperial standard.
The flag of Kostroma was created on the basis of the symbols of the coat of arms. There is no officially approved Kostroma anthem.
Story
Main article: History of KostromaCentime.. more: History of the Kostroma region
Origin of the name
There is no single scientifically based view on the origin of the city’s name. Undoubtedly, this is a hydronym: the name is derived from the river on which it stands. “Kostra” (or “kostrika”) in East Slavic dialects means straw for burning. In Vasmer's dictionary, this toponym is associated with an East Slavic ritual character, who was a straw doll, which was symbolically burned during the summer ritual cycle - on Semik or Peter's Day (“funeral of Kostroma”). There is also a version of the Finno-Ugric origin of the name: Finn. kosto - revenge, Finnish. maa - land, “Land of retribution”. However, formant extraction -ma in some cases it is controversial, and the base bonfire is atypical for the pre-Russian hydronymy of this region.
Foundation of the city
Archaeological excavations in the center modern city have revealed scattered finds of Fatyanovo axes - it is likely that they come from a destroyed burial ground Bronze Age. Molded ceramics from the mid-2nd half of the 1st millennium (that is, the period preceding Slavic colonization) were found, indicating a Finno-Ugric settlement.
Monument to the founder of the city, Grand Duke Yuri Dolgoruky
The founding date of Kostroma is officially considered to be 1152. This date was proposed by the historian V.N. Tatishchev, linking this event with the activities of Yuri Dolgoruky in the northeast of Rus'. There are no reliable indications of this, just as other existing hypotheses do not have serious scientific support.
Available archaeological finds indicate the existence in the 11th-12th centuries. fortress and trade and craft settlement on the left bank of the Volga at the confluence of the Sula River.
Kostroma in the XIII-XVII centuries.
The first chronicle mention of the existence of Kostroma dates back to 1213, it is associated with strife between the offspring of the Grand Duke of Vladimir Vsevolod the Very Big Nest. This year, the Rostov prince Konstantin burned Kostroma, which supported his brother, the Vladimir prince Yuri: “and I will burn everything, and the inhabitants of our planet will be taken away”. In the aftermath of the victory, Constantine in 1216 -1217 transferred Kostroma to his own young son Vasily.
The fate of Kostroma during Batu’s invasion in 1238 is not known for certain: the invaders “they captured everything on the Volga up to Galich Mersky” .
In the aftermath of 1239, Kostroma was restored by the Grand Duke of Vladimir Yaroslav Vsevolodovich, who built a church made of wood in the city in honor of the patron saint Theodore Stratilates, whose name he bore in baptism. In 1246, the city came into the appanage ownership of Vasily’s young son. In the same year, Kostroma became the capital of the Kostroma appanage principality, which separated from Vladimir-Suzdal Rus'
In 1272, Vasily Yaroslavich became the Grand Duke of Vladimir - the head of all the appanage principalities of North-Eastern Rus'. He did not go to the capital Vladimir, but remained in the appanage Kostroma, thereby making the city the capital of North-Eastern Rus' until his death in 1276.
In XIII -XIV centuries Fortified monasteries appeared around Kostroma, protecting the approaches to the city: Ipatievsky and Nikolo-Babaevsky.
In 1364, Kostroma became part of the Capital Principality, since then its history has been inseparable from the development and culture of the all-Russian country. The city made of Wood at the mouth of the Sula was often subjected to predatory attacks by the Ushkuiniki, as a result of which in 1419 it was moved to a new elevated place, which became clear as the Kostroma Kremlin. The first stone building in the city, the Assumption Cathedral, was built directly there.
Church of the Resurrection on Debra, photo 1910, S. Mtr. Prokudin-Gorsky
IN Time of Troubles Kostroma was twice taken by troops of the Polish master Lisovsky and suffered terrible devastation; in 1609, the Kostroma militia played a necessary role in the fight against the Polish intervention, expelling the supporters of False Dmitry II who had taken refuge there from the Ipatiev Monastery. Kostroma detachments joined the people's militia of Minin and Pozharsky. In the Ipatiev Monastery in 1613, Misha Fedorovich Romanov was called to the throne, and thus Kostroma became the “cradle” of the royal and imperial Romanov dynasty.
In the aftermath of the Time of Troubles, the defensive fortifications of the Kremlin were rebuilt in Kostroma, and a wide trade and craft settlement and settlements spread around. By the middle of the 17th century. Kostroma, in terms of its economic development and number of inhabitants, becomes the third after Moscow and Yaroslavl, a significant craft city of Capital Rus' with developed textile, leather, soap, silver and icon-painting production. Blacksmithing, pottery, and construction trades were developed. At the same time, a huge shopping center appeared in Kostroma, and an English trading post was established in the city. In the 2nd half of the 17th century, an outstanding school of fresco and icon painting was formed in Kostroma.
Provincial city
As a result of Peter's reforms, Kostroma in 1708 became a provincial city of the Capital Province. On July 16, 1744, the Kostroma diocese was established.
Galley "Tver", 1879
(painter A.K. Beggrov)
In 1767, Catherine II organized the coat of arms of Kostroma with the image of the Tver galley, on which she arrived in Kostroma. In the aftermath of the fire of 1773, the Kremlin and nearby neighborhoods were most likely rebuilt, and a new Gostiny Dvor was built. By the end of the century, the cathedral bell tower was completed, which rose above the surrounding buildings, thereby organizing the spatial environment of the city. Since 1778, Kostroma became the center of the Kostroma governorate. In 1781, Catherine II approved the general plan for the construction of Kostroma, according to which defensive ditches were filled in, earthworks were torn down, and construction of the city with shopping arcades and civil buildings began.
From the middle of the 18th century, the development of Kostroma as a textile center began: in 1751, the merchant I. D. Uglechaninov built the first linen factory. In terms of the volume of linen fabrics produced, Kostroma quickly took first place in the Russian Federation. There were still 12 tanneries and 18 brick factories, 6 cloth factories, a bell foundry, a tile factory and other factories operating here. Kostroma became a huge trading port on the Volga transit route.
In December 1796, by decree of ruler Paul I, the city became the center of the established Kostroma province. In 1797, Paul I visited Kostroma.
The city owes the visit of Nicholas I to Kostroma in 1835 by renaming the central Yekaterinoslavskaya Square to Susaninskaya and by decree on the erection of a monument to Tsar Misha Fedorovich and the peasant Ivan Susanin (opened on March 14, 1851). Since 1838, the first edition began to be published once a week. periodical- newspaper “Kostroma Provincial Gazette”.
In 1858, Ruler Alexander II and Empress Maria Alexandrovna came to Kostroma, and in the summer of 1881 - Ruler Alexander III with Empress Maria Feodorovna and heir Nicholas.
General view of the provincial agricultural, handicraft and industrial exhibition with a social and cultural department, 1913. Photo by K. Bulla
In 1870, the first water supply system was built in Kostroma, and in 1891 the Museum of Antiquities was opened. In 1894, there were 36 churches in Kostroma. In 1895, the first five-story building was built in Kostroma (dormitory for workers and employees of the Novo-Kostroma Linen Manufactory Partnership).
The beginning of the 20th century was marked by a revival of social and economic activity in the city. In 1905, the 2nd (subsequently Ivanovo-Voznesensk) Council of Workers' Deputies in the Russian Federation was created in Kostroma. In 1913, the 300th anniversary of the Romanov dynasty was widely celebrated in Kostroma: Ruler Nicholas II and his family visited the city. For this event, a power station was built, the 2nd stage of the water supply system was opened, the center was landscaped, the foundation monolith of the grandiose monument to the 300th anniversary of the Romanov dynasty was laid, a number of civil structures were built, including the Romanov Museum and the Romanov Hospital.
Russian period
Sculpture of V. I. Lenin on the pedestal of the monument in honor of the 300th anniversary of the House of Romanov
On January 14, 1929, by resolution of the All-Russian Central Executive Committee of the USSR, the Kostroma province was abolished. Kostroma loses its status as a provincial city and is included in the composition of first the Ivanovo, and later the Yaroslavl region.
Industrialization was expressed in the accelerated development of companies in the textile, light and wood processing industries, as well as textile engineering. In 1932, the construction of the railway bridge across the Volga was completed. According to the design of engineer I.D. Zvorykin, a flax factory was being built, in which labor-intensive processes were mechanized. The construction of production buildings and residential buildings for workers was completed in 1935, and equipment installation work was carried out in 1936-1938. By the end of the 1930s, the population literally doubled due to the influx of labor from farmers. In 1932, the Textile Institute was created, and in 1939, the Teachers' Institute.
In the 1930s, a huge number of churches were destroyed or rebuilt in the city. More clear is the destruction of the Kostroma Kremlin in 1934, churches and chapels in the center. Even earlier, in September 1918, Susaninskaya Square was renamed Revolution Square, and the destruction of the monument to the feat of Ivan Susanin began (almost completely dismantled by 1934).
During the Great Patriotic War Hospitals, military schools and the civilian population were evacuated to Kostroma. Near Kostroma in the fall of 1941, the Yaroslavl Communist Division was formed. Thousands of Kostroma residents were awarded orders and medals for their exploits at the front and home front, 29 of them were awarded the title of Hero of the Russian Union.
On August 13, 1944, the city of Kostroma became administrative center re-established the Kostroma region.
In the 1950-1980s. in Kostroma, in addition to the textile and woodworking industries, new promising industries are intensively developing: energy, mechanical engineering and metalworking, radio electronics and instrument making.
View of the Volga near the pedestrian bridge
At this time, intensive industrial and residential construction was carried out: industrial zones and residential neighborhoods were formed. New social infrastructure facilities are appearing and existing ones are being modernized (the medical building of the regional hospital (1981), the ambulance station (1982), the circus (1984), the archive building of the Kostroma region (1984), the Philharmonic (1988), etc.).
The tourist infrastructure was developed; in 1958, on the basis of the Ipatiev Monastery, a historical and construction museum-reserve was organized, behind the southern wall of the monastery along the left bank of the Igumenka River in the 1960s. a museum complex made of wood architecture is being formed. In 1970, traffic was opened on a pedestrian bridge across the Volga River; trolleybus service began in 1972; in 1986, a pedestrian bridge across the Kostroma River connected the area of Ipatievskaya Sloboda with the central part of the city. The Volga hotel complex was built on the left bank of the Volga (1977). In 1987, a holiday was held in Kostroma for the first time - City Day, which coincided with its 835th anniversary.
Dynamics of changes in the city's population:
Authorities
The Government Building is the seat of the city administration and Duma.
Centime.. more: Mayors of Kostroma and the Duma of the city of Kostroma
Every day the representative body of local government of the city has been working since 1994, the Duma of the city of Kostroma, elected for a term of 5 years. In October 2010, the Duma of the fifth convocation was elected, which included 35 deputies. Chairman of the Duma of the city of Kostroma - Yuri Valerievich Zhurin.
The highest official of the city is the head of the city of Kostroma. In 2008, changes were made to the Tired City of Kostroma, abolishing the popular election of the head of the city, establishing the procedure for electing the head of the city from among the members of the Duma of the city of Kostroma and introducing the position of head of the city administration (city manager), hired on a competitive basis. On February 24, 2011, Yuri Valerievich Zhurin was elected head of the city for the period of the Duma of the 5th convocation; the administration of Kostroma was headed by A. V. Shadrichev. On February 16, 2012, the city Duma accepted the resignation of Shadrichev, and B. A. Satuev was appointed acting head of the administration
Economy
General state
In 2010, goods of own production were shipped, works and services were performed in-house, manufacturing industries - 21.0 billion rubles.
City budget
Industry
Kostroma is an ancient center of the textile industry (mainly linen). More famous are the flax mill named after I. D. Zvorykin, the Bolshaya Kostroma Linen Manufactory, and the Belt Braid factory.
Mechanical engineering is represented by the following plants: "Motordetal", ship mechanical, ventilation, heating and energy-saving equipment "Concern Bear", heater, textile engineering, excavator, dyeing and finishing equipment, production of commercial refrigeration equipment Brandford and others. Creating heat and electrical energy are implemented by Kostroma CHPP-1 and Kostroma CHPP-2.
10 rubles (2002) - commemorative coin from the cycle Ancient Cities of the Russian Federation
Developed woodworking (plywood mill "Fanplit", furniture factory "Kostromamebel", furniture factory "Takos"), polymer (plant "Remstroyplast"), printing (SI IPP "Kostroma"), food industry(FL Federal State Unitary Enterprise "Kostroma Distillery", distillery, food plant "Merengue", plant for the production of frozen cutlets, creation of bottled water "Holy Source", bakeries, dairy plants, bakeries and others), creation of building materials (silicate plant, plant roofing materials) and consumer goods (Kvarts plant, FEST enterprise and others).
Kostroma is famous for its jewelry making; there are a number of jewelry manufacturing companies operating in the city: the Kostroma Jewelry Factory, as well as the jewelry companies Altmaster, Alkor, Topaz, Egret, and Delta.
Banking and trade
There are 12 financial and credit institutions in the city (primarily branches, but there are also local banks, for example, Aksonbank, Sovcombank).
The city has a developed retail trade, there are supermarkets, shops and shopping centers, including those belonging to federal retail chains: AI, SPAR, Akson, Euroset, Magnit, M.Video, Svyaznoy, Tekhnosila, "Eldorado".
Connection
The main operators of communication services (landline telephone communication and provision of Internet access) in the city are OJSC CenterTelecom (Verkhnevolzhsky branch) and OJSC KGTS (Kostroma city telephone network). Wired Internet access and IP telephony services are still provided by several providers: Beeline, PROSTOR Telecom (Kvantum CJSC), Logos, etc.
Mobile telephone communications are represented by 4 GSM operators: MegaFon, MTS, Beeline, TELE2 and one CDMA operator - SkyLink.
Tourism
Tourism is considered as a necessary direction for the development of the city's economy. Kostroma is usually included in the tourist route “Golden Ring of the Russian Federation” and cruises on the Volga. The role of business tourism is gradually growing, a number of socio-political forums and cultural events of an all-Russian and international nature are being held.
The number of tourists and excursionists visiting the city every year does not exceed 400 thousand people. The hospitality infrastructure is generally underdeveloped. The bulk of tourists visit the city as part of a day excursion.
At the end of 2010, there were 15 hotels in the city, including: hotel complexes "Volga" and "Snegurochka", hotels "Business Hotel", "Azimut Kostroma", "Golden Ring", "Aristocrat", "ShelestoFF", "Premier" ", "Comfort", hotel and health complex "Troy" and others.
Local and regional authorities are developing a number of tourism brands, such as “Kostroma - the pearl of the Golden Ring”, “Kostroma God-protected”, “Kostroma - the cheese capital of Central Russia”, “Kostroma - the flax capital of Russia”, “Kostroma and the Berendee kingdom - the birthplace of the Snow Maiden " and others .
Logo of the program “Kostroma - the soul of Russia” (2010)
In July 2010 it was introduced comprehensive program increasing the tourist and investment attractiveness of the city of Kostroma and the Kostroma region “Kostroma is the soul of Russia”. The long-term program provides for the creation in Kostroma " National Center history, culture and spirituality" based on the principles of public-private partnership and assigning the corresponding official status to the city of Kostroma.
Within the framework of the program, it is planned to carry out the reconstruction and construction of cultural and historical objects, reconstruction of churches and monasteries, modernization of housing, communal and transport infrastructure (including the construction of a river station), improvement of the city, development of the hospitality sector (training, adaptation of the urban environment for people with disabilities, development and promotion of the city brand, etc.), holding events aimed at preserving the historical and cultural heritage of the country and spiritual and moral education of society. These events will be implemented in preparation for the celebration of the 400th anniversary of the restoration of Russian statehood and the accession of the Romanov dynasty in 2013.
Transport
Intracity public transport
City traffic along Rossiyskaya Street
City transport is represented by bus, trolleybus and minibus. There are 58 operating city routes in Kostroma with a length of more than 600 km.
At the end of 2010, 89 units of urban transport were involved in the transportation process every day - large-capacity buses and trolleybuses, as well as about 540 transport units of private carriers.
Currently, public transport in Kostroma is in deep decline, associated, in particular, with ineffective management and with a reduction in the number of city buses of enormous capacity. At the end of the 1990s, there were 2 urban transport companies operating in the city: PATP-1 (about 150 Ikarus and LiAZ buses) and PATP-4 (91 Mercedes buses). In 2004, PATP-1 was liquidated, 14 Ikarus buses were transferred to PATP-4. In March 2011, PATP-4 was recognized as zero, and some of the Mercedes were written off.
In August 2011, the largest renewal of the vehicle fleet took place in last years: 33 PAZ and LiAZ buses equipped with the GLONASS system were purchased for the new city transport enterprise Kostromagortrans through leasing. It is planned to equip the new buses with external and interior electronic displays, a video recording system and a validator. At the same time, the price for travel in Kostroma public transport remains the same - 10 rubles.
Automatic transport
Kostroma is connected to the cities of Yaroslavl, Ivanovo and Vladimir by a federal highway A113. The federal highway “St. Petersburg - Yekaterinburg” (via Vologda - Kirov - Perm) that is under construction passes through the city. An important congestion of transit and urban traffic flows occurs on the only automobile and pedestrian bridge across the Volga, located near the city center. The long-term development plan for Kostroma provides for the construction of a bypass road and a second automatic bridge downstream outside the city limits.
Aqua transport
There is a river port in Kostroma, but systematic passenger traffic is limited: the movement of high-speed vessels was stopped in the late 1990s, local transportation is carried out by a motor ship of the "Moscow" type. During the summer, the port receives a certain number of cruise ships every day.
Air Transport
Sokerkino Airport serves a small number of local flights. Between their flights:
- Kostroma - Sharya - Bogovarovo on An-2 planes
- Kostroma - Kineshma - Yuryevets by Mi-2 helicopters (from April to September on Friday and Sunday).
On April 14, 2009, air traffic with Moscow was resumed, and since 2010 - with Yuryevets, Anapa and St. Petersburg.
Railway transport
Kostroma station, 1st decade of the 20th century
In 1887, a connection was made to Kostroma Railway from Yaroslavl. The Kostroma station, built on the right bank of the Volga (currently not used for passenger transportation), did not have a bridge connection with the central left bank part of the city. In 1932, the construction of the railway bridge and Kostroma-Novaya station with a station in the constructivist style was completed.
Kostroma-Novaya station station
The city has access to the main railways: an electrified single-track section Kostroma - Yaroslavl and a single-track diesel locomotive section Kostroma - Galich (Northern Trans-Siberian). Due to different electrification systems (3 kV, D.C. in Yaroslavl and Kostroma and 25 kV, alternating current, in Galich) and the unprofitability of constructing an additional connecting station, the movement of transit trains through Kostroma is limited. The bulk of trains go around the regional center through Danilov and Bui.
Kostroma is connected by daily direct communication with Moscow (branded train “Kostroma”) and St. Petersburg (trailer direct carriages). Passenger trains run from Moscow to Khabarovsk every year, and summer time- Moscow - Vladivostok, Kostroma - Anapa (via Ryazan) and Kostroma - Adler (via Lipetsk).
Suburban communication is carried out by electric trains to Nerekhta and Yaroslavl: electric trains run every day with all stops (travel time to Yaroslavl is about 3 hours) and additional express trains (travel time about 2 hours). There is also a daily suburban train Kostroma - Galich (travel time 3.5 hours).
Until 1985, there was a suburban service between Kostroma (5 km junction) and Miskovo along a narrow-gauge metal road. Currently, the railway of the Miskovsky peat enterprise is dismantled.
In the mid-1970s, a commuter train Kostroma - Ivanovo ran every day, as well as a local train Kostroma - Kirov with direct carriages Kostroma - Vologda and Kostroma - Malekhankoe Ramenye, providing convenient and reliable communication between Kostroma and the largest regional centers and neighboring regional centers. The Kostroma - Gorky carriage ran with the Kostroma - Moscow train. In 2010, the route of the local train Kostroma - Svecha (a shortened version of the Kostroma - Kirov train) was eliminated.
Social sphere
Education
Main article: Education in KostromaThe building of the men's classical gymnasium on Vsekhsvyatskaya Street. Beginning of the 20th century ()
The first educational institution in Kostroma - the “Digital School” - was opened in 1722, in 1747 the Kostroma Theological Seminary was created, in 1786 - the Basic Public School, in 1805 a district school was opened in Kostroma, and in 1814 - a parish school .
In 1804, in the provincial Kostroma, the Basic Public School was transformed into a four-class men's gymnasium, located at the beginning of Vsekhsvyatskaya Street. In the fall of 1834, Nicholas I, while staying in Kostroma, ordered the governor’s house nearby (currently the main building of KSTU) to be transferred to the gymnasium. Later the gymnasium was transformed into an eight-grade school with a preparatory class. In 1840, graduates of the Kostroma gymnasium received the right to enter the Imperial Universities without entrance exams. In 1896, due to an increase in the number of students, a 3rd floor was added to the building. In various years, the familiar writers A.F. Pisemsky, ethnographer S.V. Maksimov, philosopher V.V. Rozanov, critic and publicist N.K. Mikhailovsky, economist N.D. Kondratiev, historians F.I. . Uspensky and E. E. Golubinsky, sinologist S. Mtr. Georgievsky, metallurgist K.P. Polenov, polar explorer A.N. Zhokhov, church figures: Archimandrite Macarius (Glukharev), Bishop Porfiry (Uspensky), Metropolitan Arseny (Moskvin) and almost all other figures of science and culture.
Regional administration building (formerly Kostroma Diocesan Women's School)
The history of women's education in the Russian Federation is connected with Kostroma: on August 25, 1857, the “Grigorov School of the 1st category for girls of all classes” was opened, funded by the real state councilor A. N. Grigorov. In 1859, he acquired a plot of land for the school with an L-shaped house and other buildings on Pyatnitskaya Street. In the aftermath of Grigorov's death on May 24, 1870, the school was transformed into the Grigorov Women's Gymnasium, the first in the Russian Federation.
The diocesan girls' school for training teachers of parochial schools was built in 1899-1904. thanks to a lucky chance: an employee of the men's gymnasium P.I. Sergeev won a very huge amount of money in the lottery and donated it to the city (currently the administration building of the Kostroma region).
Kostroma owes the development of vocational education to F.V. Chizhov, according to whose will 2 vocational schools were opened in Kostroma. Chizhov schools had first-class equipment, and teachers were recruited from graduates of the capital's higher educational institutions; the best students were sent for internships abroad.
In 1913, during the celebration of the 300th anniversary of the Romanov dynasty, a decision was made to establish the first higher educational institution in Kostroma - the Teachers' Institute. However true story Kostroma higher education began with the opening on November 7, 1918 of the “Kostroma City Workers’ and Peasants’ University in memory of October revolution 1917".
Reading room of the Scientific Library of KSU named after N. A. Nekrasov (formerly Assembly Hall of the Grigorov Women's Gymnasium)
Currently, there are 4 city universities in the city - Kostroma City University named after N. A. Nekrasov, Kostroma City Technological University, Kostroma City Agricultural Academy and Military Academy radiation, chemical and biological protection and engineering troops named after Marshal of the Russian Union S.K. Timoshenko.
There are branches and representative offices of city and non-state universities, secondary professional educational establishments(music school, medical university named after Hero of the Russian Union S.A. Bogomolov, school of culture, highway university, consumer service university, forestry university, mechanical engineering college, technological college, polytechnic university, construction college, trade and economic university, energy college named after F . V. Chizhov), institutions of primary vocational education (colleges and schools), planetarium.
In the city government there are institutions general education(lyceums, gymnasiums, schools, boarding schools, evening shift schools), institutions of additional education for children and preschool educational institutions (kindergartens). 6 children's music schools and two art schools provide basic music and art education.
Culture
Romanov Museum building
The building of the Drama Theater named after. A. N. Ostrovsky
Theaters and concert and entertainment institutions: one of the oldest in the Russian Federation, the Kostroma City Drama Theater named after A. N. Ostrovsky (since 1808), the Kostroma Regional Puppet Theater (since 1936), the Kostroma Chamber Drama Theater (1998), the concert and exhibition center " Gubernsky", city philharmonic of the Kostroma region. There are 2 cinemas in the city that keep up with the times: “Friendship XXI Century” (2 halls) and “Five Stars” (6 halls).
The main museum institutions of Kostroma: historical, construction and art museum-reserve, museum-reserve of wooden architecture "Kostromskaya Sloboda", literary museum, nature museum, theater costume museum, art gallery. There are private museums: the museum-estate of flax and birch bark, the art gallery “Perpetuum Art” and others.
The centralized library system of Kostroma unites 20 libraries with a total collection of about 1.5 million volumes, including the Kostroma Regional Universal science Library and the Kostroma Regional Children's Library named after Arkady Gaidar, university libraries.
On beginning of XXI century, there are 4 city creative groups operating in the city (city symphony orchestra; city choral academic capella; music, song and dance ensemble “Volga-Volga”; city harmonica ensemble “Makhonya”). The Russian Municipal Ballet “Kostroma” is widely known. Since 1998, an open city festival-competition of children's, youth and youth creative societies and performers “Spring Kostroma” (originally “Autumn Kostroma”) has been held in Kostroma, in which more than 3 thousand participants take part every year. Kostroma hosts the annual regional festival of children's and youth creativity "Freestyle". The winners take part in the big gala concert “Freestyle”, which takes place at the end of January.
In 2008-2011, a number of important cultural and entertainment events were implemented in Kostroma, including the “Constellation” festival, an exhibition of Faberge products, an outdoor stage performance of the operas “Boris Godunov” and “Khovanshchina” and others.
In preparation for the celebration of the 400th anniversary of the House of Romanov, the Romanov Festival has been held since 2010 in January-March. The purpose of the festival is the revival of spiritual and moral traditions and values Russian society and the development of tourism in the region, in particular the popularization of the Kostroma Royal tourist brand. The program of the Romanov Festival 2011 included exhibitions, concerts, scientific readings, forums, competitions and theatrical performances. Among them are the Star of Bethlehem festival, the Watercolors exhibition Grand Duchess Olga Alexandrovna", youth educational forum "Patriot-2011", dog sled race "Northern Hope", Romanov readings, theatrical performance "Historical Day", exhibition "Faberge Time", trophy raid "Susanin Trophy".
Healthcare
The city has a developed system of regional and city medical institutions, including an ambulance station, a network of hospitals and clinics (including children's). There are a number of specialized institutions - medical dispensaries, a blood transfusion station, a certain number of dental clinics, a center for psychotherapy and practical psychology, ladies' consultations, maternity hospitals. Private medicine has developed extensively.
Media
Kostroma presents central and local (city and regional) printed and electronic media information.
Print mass-media
- Official media: “Kostroma Vedomosti” - a body of the city administration, a weekly newspaper; “Northern Truth” is the organ of the administration of the Kostroma region (published 3 times a week).
- Independent publication: newspaper “My City - Kostroma” (since June 2011).
- Local publications: “Youth Line”, “New Kostroma Vedomosti”, “Kostroma Fair”, “Kostroma Courier” and others.
- Regional issues of online publications: “Expert”, “Chronometer-Kostroma”, “ TVNZ", "From hand to hand", "Apartment" and others.
The media holding "People's Media Group" publishes 6 printed publications, including: "Kostroma People's Newspaper", "Voice of the People - Kostroma", "MK in Kostroma", " Middle class- Kostroma."
Electronic media
The transmission of television and radio broadcasting signals in the city is provided by the Kostroma branch of the Federal State Unitary Enterprise RTRS. On Myasnitskaya Street there is a regional radio and television transmission center (ORTPC) with a tower 100 meters high (put into operation in 1958)
Throughout the city, on-air reception of 11 television programs is provided: Channel 1, Nasha Otchizna 1, Nasha Otchizna-K (“Culture”), NTV, Channel 5, TVC, etc.
Kostroma television broadcasts began in 1992. Currently, programs are being broadcast by local television studios: State Television and Radio Broadcasting Company "Kostroma", OTRK "Rus", "Kostroma Information Channel", "Logos". A certain number of operators provide coverage of city districts with cable television, broadcasting dozens of Russian and foreign channels.
At the beginning of 2011, the city provided broadcasting of 12 all-Russian and local radio stations in the VHF OIRT (since 1960) and VHF CCIR bands.
Religion
Feodorovskaya Icon of the Mother of God
The most representative religious association was and remains the Kostroma Diocese of the Russian Orthodox Church Metropolitan Patriarchate, founded on July 16, 1744. Within the city there are about 2-10 Orthodox churches, as well as the men's Holy Trinity Ipatievsky, ladies' Epiphany-Anastasiin and Znamensky monasteries. Since 1747 (with a break from 1918-1990), the Kostroma Theological Seminary has been operating in the city.
In the Epiphany Cathedral there is the Feodorovskaya Icon of the Mother of God - the miraculous icon of the Mother of God revered by the Russian Orthodox Church. The icon is known as one of the shrines of the Romanov dynasty, since tradition connects it with the calling of the founder of the dynasty, Tsar Misha Fedorovich, to the kingdom in 1613 in the Ipatiev Monastery.
Kostroma is a familiar center of the Old Believers, the first cathedral city of the Kostroma and Yaroslavl diocese of the Russian Orthodox Old Believers Church. In the Trans-Volga part of the city there is the Cathedral of the Transfiguration of the Old Believers.
Other branches of Christianity are represented primarily by areas of Protestantism: religious communities of Evangelical Christians-Baptists, Seventh-day Adventists, Christians of the Evangelical faith - Pentecostals, a group of Lutherans and some others.
As in almost all cities of the Upper Volga, Muslims professing Sunni Islam, primarily the Volga Tatars, have lived in Kostroma since ancient times.
The first information about the Jewish religious community of Kostroma dates back to 1858. In 1903-1907, at the expense of the community, a two-story wooden synagogue building was built in Senny Lane. In 1930 the building was requisitioned and later housed kindergarten and any organizations. The building was preserved, and in April 1998, by decision of the city administration, it was almost completely transferred to the ownership of the Jewish community. Currently there are religious community, community, charitable and educational centers.
Urban planning and architecture
“Plan for the provincial city of Kostroma” (1781)
The city of Kostroma is an ordinary and unique monument of Russian urban planning of the 16th-19th centuries with valuable monuments of architecture and history, one of the Russian cities that have preserved, in general, a unique and ordinary building appearance.
Planning, urban planning
The city historically developed on the rugged terrain of the left bank of the Volga. In the old part of the city, the planning structure given by the general plan of 1781 has been preserved. The basis of the radial semi-circular layout is a slender and developed grid of streets, fanning out from the central square. The three-ray system of Eleninskaya (Lenin St.), Pavlovskaya (Mira Ave.) and Maryinskaya (Shagova St.) streets was supplemented by several more streets connecting the city center with its outskirts. The entire system of radial highways was crossed by 3 semi-rings of streets with a broken layout.
Fire tower on Susaninskaya Square - a symbol of Kostroma
In the process of bringing the construction plan to fruition. XVIII - 1st half. XIX century the building ensemble of the center of Kostroma took shape, which still defines artistic originality cities.
In the middle of the 19th century, an industrial zone was formed in the area adjacent to the Kostroma River and its tributary Zaprudna, opposite the Ipatiev Monastery. Its base consisted, primarily, of complexes of huge textile factories (A.V. Bryukhanov (1853), Zotov brothers (1859), Tretyakov brothers and V.D. Konshin (1866)). Brick two- and three-story production buildings with elegantly decorated technological towers and high chimneys formed a system of courtyards and intra-factory streets. In One And Also Time, workers’ settlements began to form around factories, which, along with residential buildings, included any charitable, educational, medical, and cultural and educational institutions.
In Russian times, the Trans-Volga side of Kostroma became part of the city: the villages of Gorodishche and Selishche, which were dacha areas in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, were included in the city in 1932. Their layout still retains medieval features and makes them one of the colorful areas of Kostroma. In 1940, the Trans-Volga village of Malyshkovo became part of the city. Located across the Kostroma River, the Bogoslovskaya and Andreevskaya settlements, familiar from the 16th-17th centuries, were included in the number of urban areas in 1931. They have very well preserved their layout and construction, which constitutes the historical environment for the ensemble of the Ipatiev Monastery.
Formation of the Kostroma area in the XII-XVIII centuries.
During the years of industrialization of the country, intensive industrial construction began in Kostroma, which entailed the construction of residential buildings and workers' settlements, buildings for cultural and social purposes. These buildings, built in the style of constructivism and similar stylistic trends, largely changed the appearance of the city, giving it a new scale. More ideas for new architecture were embodied in the construction of the I. D. Zvorykin flax mill and factory village in the mid-1930s. In the post-war years, the volume of construction work on housing and public buildings increased. Comprehensive construction of the territories has been carried out since the late 1950s. The construction of residential buildings according to standard series began to develop. In the 1970-1980s. Intensive construction of new industrial zones and residential neighborhoods took place around the outer border of the old city: Davydovskie, Panovo, Yubileiny, Yakimanikha, Malyshkovo, Pervomaisky.
In 2003-2010 A large-scale campaign to improve the city was carried out. Among other things, a pedestrian zone was organized along the Volga embankment, Susaninskaya Square, Mira Square and the boulevard part of Mira Avenue were reconstructed, monuments and sculptures were installed.
In 2008-2009 The City Duma approved the General Plan of the city of Kostroma.
Build styles
Trinity Cathedral of the Ipatiev Monastery
The architectural heritage is very diverse: monuments of ancient Russian architecture (primarily religious buildings); samples of folk architecture made of wood; monuments of the Baroque and Classical eras (including Empire style). A large group of architectural monuments represents the so-called. “Russian” style of the late 19th - early 20th centuries. The architecture of Russian times is represented by individual buildings in the style of constructivism and neoclassicism of the 1950s. and stylistic trends close to them.
Between the architectural monuments there are a number of huge historical and architectural complexes, monasteries, churches, chapels, monuments of civil and industrial architecture (administrative buildings, educational institutions, theaters, factory buildings, retail premises, hospitals, etc.), landscape art , there are more numerous monuments of residential architecture (residential buildings with outbuildings, estates). Monumental art in the city is represented by sculptural compositions, monuments and busts, as well as a significant number of wall paintings and iconostases.
In the post-revolutionary decades, Kostroma's construction landscape suffered great losses; most of the churches were destroyed, the cathedral ensemble was blown up, and the city lost its high-rise dominant features. At the same time, all the main structures of civil architecture, an important part of the residential construction, survived.
Churches and monasteries
Santim.. more: Kostroma Kremlin, List of temples in Kostroma, Ipatiev Monastery and Epiphany-Anastasia MonasteryOf greater excitement are the ensembles of the Ipatiev and Epiphany-Anastasia Monasteries (XVI-XIX centuries), as well as the churches of the 17th century: the Resurrection on Debra, the Ascension on Debra (reconstructed), the Nativity of Christ on the Settlement, St. John the Evangelist in the Ipatievskaya Sloboda, the Transfiguration beyond the Volga.
Kostroma suffered almost more than other cities of the Golden Ring during Russian times. With the exception of the Church of St. John Chrysostom and the Church of the Resurrection on Debra, all the parish churches of pre-Petrine times were demolished in the city center, including the Assumption Cathedral and such a pearl of ornamentation as the two-pillar Trinity Church (1650). As in Yaroslavl, the Kremlin territory was transformed into wasteland. For this reason, the historical and construction museum-reserve in Russian times was occupied by the Ipatiev Monastery, located away from the city center.
In addition to Ipatievsky, another huge monastery survived in the city (albeit with significant losses) - Epiphany-Anastasiin, where, along with buildings of unsightly architecture, stands the Epiphany Cathedral, which was common for Grozny times. The remains of the cathedral's 17th-century frescoes were destroyed by fire in 1982.
Building ensemble of the historical center
Centime.. more: Susaninskaya Square and Trading Rows (Kostroma)Petty shopping arcades and the Church of the Savior in the Red Trading Rows
The central part of the city is a complete, exemplary building ensemble of the late 18th-19th centuries. Monuments of provincial classicism constitute the main pride of Kostroma. Between the buildings of the time of Alexander I, the ensemble of Susaninskaya Square is noteworthy: the buildings of the guardhouse and fire tower (designer P.I. Fursov) and the Public Places (architects A.D. Zakharov, N.I. Metlin), the house of S.S. Borshchov (designer N. . I. Metlin).
In the center are symmetrically located: Very Large Flour (1789-1793) and Red Trading Rows (1789-1800) (designer S. A. Vorotilov, initial project belongs to the provincial designer K. von Kler). The buildings are surrounded by open vaulted galleries. Each arch had a separate merchant's shop with its own entrance and display window, an office on the second floor and a warehouse in the basement. On the southern side of the Red Rows, the Church of the Savior in Rows with a bell tower was built, in the courtyard there are Melochny Rows (1831-1832). Also built around are the elegant Vegetable (Tobacco) rows (1819-1822) (designer V.P. Stasov), Butter rows - a two-story house with adjacent arcade galleries (1809, designer N.I. Metlin), and Gingerbread rows with 2 chapels (late XVIII - early XIX century), and down the slope along Molochnaya Gora Street - Fish Rows (1840-1850) and the parade entrance from the Volga - Stolichnaya Zastava (1823, designer P.I. Fursov).
At the beginning of Pavlovskaya Street (currently Mira Avenue), the building in the neo-Russian style of the Romanov Museum (1909-1911, designer N.I. Gorlitsyn) presents excitement. Next are magnificent examples of civil architecture: the three-story building of the Noble Assembly (1837-1838, designer Mtr. Mtr. Prave) with 2 halls: Big White and Small Golden (Ekaterininsky) and the building of the Drama Theater (1863).
Sights of the Russian period
"Ostrovsky's gazebo" on the Volga embankment (1956)
Among the buildings of the Russian period, the best known are the new monument to Ivan Susanin (1967) (the previous one was destroyed in 1918-1928), the buildings of the communication house (1934), the factory-kitchen and the Kostroma Novaya station built in the constructivist style (rebuilt in the late 1990s). XX years), Exhibition of Achievements of the National Economy.
In 1955-1958 In the Ipatievskaya Sloboda, behind the southern wall of the monastery, a museum of architecture made of wood was created from samples of residential and religious architecture of the 16th-19th centuries. from the area of the Kostroma region. A more valuable exhibit of this open-air museum - the church from the village of Vyruchil-Vezhi (built in 1713) - burned down in September 2002.
Monuments of monumental art
Santim.. more: Monuments of KostromaOn the streets and squares of Kostroma there are monuments dedicated to personalities and historical events, among which: monuments to Ivan Susanin (1967) on Susaninskaya Square, Yuri Dolgoruky (2003) on Rossiyskaya (Voskresenskaya) Square, V.I. Lenin on the site of the former Kostroma Kremlin, A.A. Zinoviev (2009) in the park of KSU named after N . A. Nekrasova, St. Theodore Stratilates in the Epiphany-Anastasia Monastery, the Monument of Glory on Peace Square, the monument to home front workers (“Tear”) (2006) in front of the Gubernsky concert and exhibition center, “Alley of Recognition” (2009) on Mira Avenue and others.
Like the residents of Yaroslavl, and of course I mean our entire region, the residents of Kostroma also have their own sea. Kostroma Reservoir or spill (bay) of the Gorky Reservoir. Kostroma residents call it the sea. Lake-type reservoir with complex shape coasts and many islands. If you are interested in seeing the map, click here.
Despite the fact that the pond is a neighbor’s, the shore is ours! Therefore, I am including these places in a series of small reviews of Nekrasov’s places. By the way, dobriy_vasya
, you once asked people in one of your posts to show local reservoirs :) Here you go.
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The history of the spill is just as ambiguous as the Rybinsk spill. Well, maybe not on such a large scale, but still a vast lowland rich in lakes and rivers was flooded. More than 20 villages were resettled settlements. Some of them numbered from 250 to 500 households! According to various data, the spill area ranged from 176 to 260 km2.
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Perhaps due to the population and abundance of lakes and rivers, the reservoir islands were not left without names. Read and listen to how the names of islands, rivers, former villages and lakes are sung: Kast, Sot, Vopsha, Idolomka and Idolomskoye, Forgiveness, Vonga, Glushitsa, Meza, Zharki, Vederki, Vezhi, Shoda, Baran, Belkina Griva, Zayachiy :) Finno -The Ugrians did their best in our region, leaving such a legacy.
On the northwestern shores (on our Yaroslavl shores) of the reservoir lies the Yaroslavsky federal zoological reserve, which now belongs to the Pleshcheyevo Lake national park.
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But let's get back to the photographs. Indian summer last fall was a success and free time I tried to visit the Nekrasov lakes more often in order to photograph them and find places for photo hunting various types for subsequent seasons. And then, on one of the warm September evenings, the gently sloping shore led right down to the water. And while the evening light was already quite low, it was necessary to have time to fly.
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The Volga itself flows near the horizon, and I was on the shore of a small bay.
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These aerial photos show just a tiny portion of the spill. On the left, near the horizon, you can see Lake Sogozhskoye, which is about 5 km away in a straight line from the shooting location.
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Having dropped off the battery at Vova’s, I walked along the shore.
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The flatness of the grass along the edges of the islands is interesting. Why did it happen? Storm or tide? In aerial photographs it looks especially unusual.
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Church in one of the Kostroma villages.
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The sun set on one side, and on the other the moon climbed into the sky.
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The evening dawn flashed for a moment and it became completely twilight. It was necessary to get ready for the return journey.
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The fishermen's camp quietly waited for their owners.
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Well, we will come back here again, I have no doubt.
- 25.09.2015.
The Kostroma Reservoir, which the local population calls “the sea” out of respect, arose in 1955-56; Kostroma was blocked by a dam at Kunikovo, forming the Kostroma Reservoir. The area of the new reservoir was 175 square kilometers, the length was more than 25 km, the width was about 15. Most of the reservoir was quite shallow, with average depths from 4 to 6 meters. From the north, several rivers flow into the reservoir - Kast, Sot, Kostroma, Meza, Prost, feeding the freshwater “sea” with their waters. In the vastness of the reservoir there are a large number of large and small islands. The river is navigable from the mouth to the town of Bui.
The mouth of the rivers Kast and Vopsha is a shallow bay of the Kostroma reservoir with prevailing depths of up to three meters. There is no clearly defined channel, but there are mounds and holes. There are a lot of large perch and pike up to one and a half kilograms. Travel by personal transport to the village of Bukhalovo. Next - by rowing boats along the Kast River.
On one of my summer holidays, I was lucky enough to spend two weeks with a pleasant company on one of the many islands of the Kostroma Reservoir. There were three of us: cousin Kolya, work colleague Boris and me. Here we not only fully indulged our fishing souls, but also experienced many different adventures. We fully experienced the ferocious, unbridled nature of this huge body of water during a storm. And most importantly, they almost drowned... But first things first.
THE GUEST SUBMITTED THE IDEA
It all started when my former classmate at the Ryazan Higher Airborne School, Boris Chudinov, came to visit me from Kostroma. As expected, we celebrated the meeting and remembered our cadet years. Boris by that time was serving in the Kostroma Parachute Regiment, and I was in the editorial office of the Moscow Military District newspaper “Red Warrior”.
I took my guest fishing to Shatura, where he really enjoyed it. And although he is clearly not a fisherman, he still caught several bream from the boat. That's when he said:
“It’s good here, of course, but here in Kostroma it’s better.” You can go fishing on the Volga and on the Kostroma Sea.
By “sea” he meant the Kostroma Reservoir. Boris said that Kostroma residents respectfully call this body of water nothing more than the sea. At first I didn't pay any attention to his words. Meanwhile he continued:
– Come, fish to your heart’s content, you won’t regret it. I'll also provide you with a motor boat.
And the more he talked about the delights of fishing on the Kostroma Sea, the more I was carried away by this unexpected proposal. And at home, seeing off my guest, I firmly promised him that I would definitely come to Kostroma on my next vacation. I didn’t want to go alone, so I started looking for companions.
And then suddenly my cousin Nikolai called me from Leningrad (that’s what our northern capital was called back then). From a conversation with him, it turned out that he also had a vacation coming up and he had not yet decided where to go. I colorfully painted him the prospect of outdoor recreation, about the upcoming fishing on the Kostroma Reservoir. He was especially fascinated by the opportunity to ride a motor boat. In short, I persuaded Kolya and he agreed.
I managed to find a third travel companion, to my joy, in my own editorial office. Secretariat employee Boris Kiselev also went on vacation. He immediately agreed to my offer to go to Kostroma.
ON THE MOON PATH
After some coordination and clarification of time, the three of us finally left for Kostroma. With backpacks, with a tent, with fishing rods. I also took a gun with me. For what? Of course, I had no intention of hunting; it was not the season. Although he was in a society of military hunters. I also had three packs of shotgun cartridges with me. I took the gun just in case, just in case.
We boarded the train late in the evening, and in the morning we were in Kostroma.
And first of all – to Boris Chudinov. After all, he promised us a motor boat. But here the first disappointment awaited us. When I reminded Boris about the “motorboat” he had promised, he sighed and in some apologetic tone began to explain that, unfortunately, there would be no motorboat. From his words it followed that his acquaintances, who promised a boat, had let him down.
Kolya was most upset. He was the youngest in our company and so dreamed of riding a motorbike! And now all that remains is to be content with an ordinary rowing boat.
After lunch, Boris took us in a gas car to a reservoir. An enchanting beauty opened before us. On the right is a virgin forest, close to the sea. To the left and in front, as far as the eye could see, was an immense expanse of water, on which here and there dark stripes of islands bordered by green vegetation could be seen. The opposite shore is not visible. Indeed, it is the sea.
We found a local fishing base, where I registered a boat. It was already getting dark when we finally fully equipped the boat and put our backpacks, tent, and fishing rods into it. The question became: should we sail at night or spend the night on the shore, so as not to tempt fate and start traveling at dawn? We decided not to waste time and sail now, especially since the weather was calm and windless. And we sailed. Where? We ourselves didn’t know this for sure. We just decided to sail away to the northern part of the “sea”, where the Kostroma and Meza rivers flow into it. It was there, as we were told at the fishing base, that fishing was more successful. We swam, keeping to the forest bank on the right. Meanwhile it was getting dark quickly. The moon rose, further decorating the night water landscape. The moon was reflected on the water as a solid silvery, shimmering path. Our clearly overloaded boat slowly moved along this lunar “path”.
This night beauty, silence and solitude seemed to enchant us. From time to time, a shadow slowly began to grow on our way. Gradually it took on its own shape, and we sailed past an island overgrown with coastal reeds. In the silence of the night, some splashes were clearly heard: either a fish was walking among the reeds, or a muskrat was hunting. Nobody wanted to sleep.
The shore on the right began to sharply move away from us, giving way to the sea. It became clear that we were sailing past a large, wide bay. Only at dawn we moored to one of the islands. It attracted us because it protruded quite high above the water, and one of its banks was not overgrown with reeds, but was clean and accessible. We decided to stop here at least temporarily and try some fishing.
VOLUNTEER ROBINSONS
They pulled up a tent and began to settle in on their island. We liked him. It was about 200 meters long and about 50 meters wide. The location turned out to be quite good. On one side the shore was overgrown with reeds, behind which the depth was shallow, about two meters. Even from the shore, behind this reed wall, roach and perch were biting well. There was also a bream. And on the other side of the shore lay the flooded bed of the Kostroma River, and the depth here reached up to six meters.
We fished both from the shore of the island and from a boat. Mostly roach, bream, and perch were caught. Sometimes I quite successfully fished with a winter fishing rod from the side of a boat over the flooded bed of the Kostroma River. I put a worm on a large jig and lowered it to the bottom. And then he began to lift it smoothly, playing with a nod. Here the bite followed. There were pike perch of 400-600 grams, perch, and bershi.
We liked the place, and therefore abandoned plans to sail further to the confluence of the Mesa River. Moreover, it would be too far to swim.
They ate mainly fish and fish soup. At first it was very appetizing, they ate it with eagerness. But gradually the fish became so fed up that I didn’t even want to look at it. Once again I was convinced that everything in nutrition should be in moderation. And then we ran out of bread, so we had to have dinner in the evening without bread. Therefore, in the morning of the next day, my fellow travelers wanted to exercise - sail on a boat to the nearest village to the store for bread, cereals, and salt. The village is about six kilometers away by water. This flight took almost half a day.
We tried to cook dried fish for future use. Boris especially wanted to bring home dried fish. The caught breams and large roaches were gutted, rubbed and sprinkled with salt. Then they put them in plastic bags so that the fish was better saturated with salt. They hung the salted fish on a cord stretched between the trees. However, this venture failed. Either the fish wasn’t salted enough, or the local flies didn’t care for salt, but after a few hours we noticed white piles of testicles on the fish. And after some time, the testicles turned into larvae, which quickly crawled throughout the entire carcass. We had to throw the fish away and no longer tried to dry it.
I believe that the reason for this failure is that the fish was not salted. After all, at home I salt fish in an enamel pan, laying it in even rows and adding salt each time. Then I make sure to put a pressure on top with a load. The fish seasoned in this way soon releases the brine, in which it remains for another two to three days (depending on the size of the fish). Only after this do I wash the fish in cold water from the brine and usually hang it on the balcony on stretched thick nylon threads.
And there, on the island, we didn’t have any saucepans.
FIGHTING WITH PIKE
Here, on the Kostroma Sea, I caught the largest pike in my entire fishing practice with a spinning rod. And it was like this. One evening we were sitting by the fire, over which hung a kettle of fish. The soup was cooked. Suddenly there was the roar of a motor boat, and after a while we saw that a “motor boat” was approaching our island. At first they thought it was fisheries inspection. We got ready for the meeting, although we didn’t have anything poaching.
Meanwhile, the “motorboat” slowed down and, with the engine turned off, touched the shore by inertia. A man in rubber boots came out and pulled the bow of the boat higher onto the shore. Then he pulled a basket with some contents out of the boat and for some reason lowered it into the water. After that, he climbed up the island and headed in our direction. We realized that this was not a fisheries inspector, but just a fisherman.
- Guys, can I meet you for a light? - he turned to us. One is bored.
“Of course, you’re welcome,” we were delighted at the unexpected guest.
He came up to us and sat down by the fire. We met and started talking. It turned out that our new friend is a Kostroma resident, retired, but he doesn’t want to sit at home. He is an avid fisherman, he goes out on his motorboat for several days at a time until he catches a basket full of fish. He will take her home, and there, in his words, “the woman will sell her at the market.” This is how he hunts for fish, combining business with pleasure. And now in his basket there were respectable pikes and pike perch. And he only fishes with a spinning rod.
I wanted to know what kind of lures he fishes with. I told him that I also tried fishing with a spinning rod, but to no avail.
“Show me your spinners,” the Kostroma resident immediately became interested.
I ran to the tent and brought a box of spinners. There were both rotating and oscillating spoons, nickel-plated and matte.
“You can throw away these toys, you won’t catch anything with them,” our friend said in a tone that did not tolerate objections.
- How to throw it away? What to catch with? – I ask him.
He took out from his storage a huge spoon, equipped with an equally huge tee. The spoon was oscillating, bronze-colored, thick, and heavy. Handed it to me:
- Take it, I’ll give it to you.
In exchange, I offered to choose any of my spinners: but the Kostroma resident refused. To be honest, I doubted then that any fish would covet such a crude bait. But he didn’t show it, he thanked him for the gift.
In the morning, as usual, I got up around four o'clock. Boris and Kolya were still sleeping. He got into the boat and went fishing. I couldn’t wait to try out the lure donated by the Kostroma resident. I tied it to the spinning line and began to fish the area along the reed strip. It was here, as I noticed, that large circles of waves formed every now and then - a predator was hunting for the fry. I made several casts - to no avail.
In one place not far from the boat, a splash was heard again, and circles formed on the water. I cast the lure in these circles and began to energetically reel in the line, simultaneously twitching the tip of the rod so that the lure could “play” better, attracting the predator.
“I got caught on something,” I thought in disappointment when the smooth movement of the spoon suddenly stopped. But suddenly this “something” came to life, I felt powerful jerks, and then a stretch. Almost holding his breath, he began to rotate the reel, pulling the prey towards him. I still can’t forget those exciting moments of combat with a toothy predator. The closer I brought the pike to the boat, the more violently it resisted, darting from side to side. Only on the third attempt was it possible to hook her.
I can’t say exactly how much that pike weighed. I can say one thing without any stretch: the cut pieces of fish barely fit into the five-liter pot. I even had to throw my head away. It turns out she weighed at least four kilograms.
Using that rough spoon - a gift from a Kostroma resident - I later caught two more pikes, smaller in size. And then it got caught on some snag and I couldn’t pull it out. It broke off. I really regretted it. And I couldn’t understand why the local pike preferred such a rough yellow bait, completely ignoring the elegant, beautiful silver spoons that I had stocked up with. Try to guess what the local fish tastes like.
ON THE BROKE FROM DEATH
Meanwhile, the time of our “Robinsonism” was ending. The day came when we folded up the tent and put our backpacks and gear in the boat. And who would have thought that it was on this last, farewell day that such a seemingly kind and friendly “sea” would show its tough temper and give us a terrible test.
We were ready to set sail when the sky on the leeward side began to darken, the wind became stronger, and it began to rain.
- Maybe we can wait it out? – Kolya suggested somehow hesitantly.
“What are you waiting for?” I objected. “The main thing is to have time to cross the large bay, and then we’ll swim along the coast, it’s not scary.”
The Big Bay is three kilometers of open water. Anyone who has swam on large bodies of water knows that even with an average wind, huge waves form on them, and swimming on them in such weather is not always safe. Especially on an overloaded boat. I looked at the water meticulously again. Waves were already walking along it, but they didn’t seem big enough to give up in front of them.
“Let’s not waste time,” I concluded. “It could be worse by lunchtime.”
And we sailed. Against the wind and waves, to the forest shore shrouded in distant foggy haze. The further they sailed from their island, the stronger the wind became, the more terrible the waves became. It seemed that nature itself was against us that day. It was no longer just waves, but huge waves of water with a white crest rushing towards our boat, which barely cut through them with its nose. I leaned on the oars with all my might, trying in no case to allow the boat to be turned around by the wind, so as not to expose the side to the wave. Otherwise...
In my heart I was already scolding myself for such rashness and carelessness. He continued to lean on the oars with all his might, his hands were buzzing and aching from tension. But even in my thoughts I could not allow someone to replace me, entrust the oars to anyone. I reassured myself: well, even if the boat capsizes, we won’t drown. Let us be left without clothes, without gear, but in the water we will hold on to the boat, it’s wooden, it won’t sink. Let's hold on. But another voice suggested: you won’t last long on such a wave. And then I remembered the words of the Kostroma resident, who said that evening around the fire that more than twenty people drown in this reservoir every summer. And fishermen too.
Gritting his teeth, he continued to row. I look back - it’s still a long way to the shore. And the boat seems to stand still, although I resist with all my strength. But no, we are still moving forward, the outlines of the desired shore are emerging more and more clearly.
This went on for more than an hour, during which at any second we could be covered with another wave of water. And when the boat finally buried itself in a sandy bank, our internal state it was simply impossible to convey. They got out of the boat and dragged it higher onto the shore. And only now did I feel how mortally tired I was. It was simply impossible to raise my arms.
Looking at me, Boris understood this too. He silently unfastened his backpack, took out a bottle of vodka he had stored, poured an almost full glass and just as silently handed it to me. For the first time in my life, I drank a glass of vodka in one gulp without feeling its strength.
I pulled out an officer’s raincoat from my backpack, and the three of us covered ourselves with it from the rain. They stood there, huddled together, not saying a word. And we were glad that there was such solid, reliable ground under us.
After about an hour, the rain stopped, the clouds cleared, and the sun came out. The furious wind also stopped and the sea calmed down. It was as if it was inviting, calling us back to itself, and did not want to let us go. And it seemed to say to us reproachfully: “Here I taught you a lesson for your carelessness, for your frivolity and carelessness. From now on you will know how to joke with me.”
Indeed, we will know from now on. We said goodbye to the sea kindly, despite its harsh farewell whim. And they promised to return someday. I have not yet kept this promise. But there is still time ahead.